Chandigarh and Shimla

In our guide book, it said that Chandigarh was designed probably in the 50’s or 60’s by Le Corbusier, a famous French architect. I had visions of a small French city. Morris reminded me to include Indians and their mentality in the equation (reference to previous blog- nothing is maintained). There are also motorcycles, rickshaws, carts and horses etc. but in reduced numbers compared to other cities.

Yesterday Morris had to work all day so some of his colleagues kindly invited me to join them in an excursion to a place called Shimla which is in the foothills of the Himalaya mountains. Unfortunately it took 3 1/2 hours to get there and three hours to get back with the most precipitous roads ever. We drove up the mountain with the usual traffic. I haven’t been car sick in years but I was feeling a little queasy. Judy wasn’t so lucky- halfway up we had to stop so that she could upchuck. 

Just because it’s a winding dangerous road didn’t mean that people stopped passing. Just because the road hugs the mountain on the way up with barely enough space on the side for a motorcycle, and there is a retaining wall (joke) of about 30 cm. on the cliff side, didn’t actually mean anything in terms of speed or passing. I have to say it was easily the most dangerous car drive I have ever experienced, and I have been to Thailand, Jamaica and Egypt! When Morris found out from the others how dangerous the road was he said that he was glad not to have know in advance as he would have been worrying. I was so thankful to have arrived back unharmed.

Shimla has its outstanding view to recommend it and thee are loads of tourists who go there to escape the heat. We also saw the viceroy’s summer home- very grand- which was handed over to the Indian government in 1947 when India achieved its independence. It is also famous because Ghandi, among other prominent Indian politicians, was there for the independence ceremony. However, he refused to attend the meetings for the partition of India into India and Pakistan because he didn’t agree with it.

Shimla:  The viceroy's residence

Today we went to Nek Chand Fantasy Rock Garden- a 25 acre Chandigarh icon.Created by Nek Chand, the “garden” is a curious maze of interlinking courtyards, twisting walkways etc. all fashioned from recycled junk and organic materials. It reminded us of the Gaudi park in Barcelona. What an amazing place! Because Chandigarh is not usually frequented by tourists other than Indians we were a real curiosity and must have been asked by at least 6 groups to have their picture taken with us. Rockstar status! 

Sculptures in the Nek Chand Rock Garden

Our drivers never seem to know where the hotel we are going to is.  So they open the passenger window and bellow across to the vehicle next to them.  Never mind that both vehicles are moving.  This is the Indian version of GPS.  You don’t have to stop to ask for directions

Someone once said of India, when asked how India was different from other places he had been:  Everyone is a doctor and wants to give you free advice.  Every stone is a God, every tree is a temple, and everywhere is a toilet.  It does seem that there are a surprising number of doctors around, doctors of Aryuvedic medicine, homeopathy, and other Indian forms of healing (as well as MD’s who, it seems can advertise).  In addition, there are those physicians with fake degrees, and all those PhD’s, real and fake. 

I don’t know about every stone being a God and every tree a temple, although there are more than a million deities in the Hindu pantheon, and many many temples.  However, I can attest that everywhere is a toilet.  It is common to see men peeing against a wall.  We passed a group of pilgrims today.  They were walking more than 200 km to their shrine.  There were many thousands of them, in a column that stretched over more than 10 km.  They carried their food, tents were set up for water, they would sleep at the side of the road, but there were no toilet facilities.  The bush would do. (It was amazing to see this never-ending parade of people spilling onto the road and walking 2-8 abreast. The colourful saris, their red and gold banners and flags, and the music that played through huge loudspeakers at every rest stop made it quite a remarkable sight!)

Pilgrims walking to their shrine more than 200 Km away

When they talk about the scents of India they include incense, but also smells of urine, rotting vegetation and feces as well as BO.  This place is not sanitary!

Indian Laundromat:  Imagine having water buffalo in your washing machine

The monuments, palaces and temples mainly, are spectacular, each more impressive than the next.  In Agra a few days ago we saw the Taj.  It was mind blowing.  The next day we saw the so-called Baby Taj, smaller than the main attraction, but no less spectacular.  (It was Morris' birthday the day we saw the Taj. Our guide illustrated how the center of the Taj is like an echo chamber. So I screamed out, "Happy Birthday Morris!" Not a bad place to spend your birthday.)

Just to prove we were there

Today we visited the Amber Fort in Jaipur.  I hope our pictures do it justice.  It was awe-inspiring.  Then we visited the Pink Palace, also in Jaipur.  Again, my mouth dropped open.  We would go through a door, an in each courtyard something new and different and spectacular.  We visited a site that they call an observatory.  It was constructed by a Maharajah in the 1700’s or 1800’s.  Essentially, he has erected several sundials, the largest of which is accurate to two seconds.  The vane of this sundial is several stories high.  He also built several astrological instruments, the angle of which faced the appropriate sign of the zodiac. Very impressive.  It all looks like a modern large scale sculpture.  

Amber fort, Jaipur

Pink Palace, Jaipur

Also at the Pink Palace

Jaipur, like Agra and old Delhi is a jumble of streets, some paved, some unpaved, and all potholed, with traffic going in every direction, in your driving lane.  It”s just crazy.  However, enough of traffic, I have expressed my feelings, and I won’ mention it again for fear of becoming boring.  

In Jaipur we stayed in yet another hunting lodge.  However, this one was in the center of the city.  nonetheless it was decorated in a manner appropriate to royalty (Maharajahs were and are royalty in India).  The front door was a huge brass door, with a smaller human sized door inset into the bigger one.  It was intricately sculpted.  Inside the wall and ceilings were decorated with intricate frescos.  On the rooftop there was an excellent restaurant.  

The entrance to our hotel, not the Pink Palace

For the most part we have had excellent food wherever we were.  I don’t think we had a bad meal, although some were less impressive than others.  As carnivores we have now added another species to our diet -  goat.   I did not realize what it was, and only found out afterwards.  I think we would have tried it even if we had known.  

Everywhere we go people stare at us.  I do’t think I am anything out of the ordinary, but Irene’s red hair attracts attention.  On occasion while attempting to take photos through the car window she was the recipient of a blown kiss from a passing motor cyclist.  I think it’s the Indian equivalent of a wolf whistle.  

The observatory

Had to do it !

Irene here!  Looks like Morris has covered everything but my aryuvedic massage. I had a hot oil massage for 70 minutes. By the end of it I was so covered in oil that had someone given me a gentle push I would have gone sliding off the table. It was absolutely the best massage I have ever experienced. I will be checking for aryuvedic massage locations in Toronto.

We are now in the airport in Delhi waiting for a connection to Varanasi. I am so looking forward to seeing the sights there. So far we find India to be such a fascinating country with very nice people. The one annoying thing so far is that they jack their prices up for the foreigners to the point where I may as well buy some of the souvenirs at home!

Love,

Irene and Morris