Barcelona-September 2012

Barcelona- Sept 7- 11

We are writing this jointly.  I hope you will be able to tell whose voice is telling the story.  Not that it really matters

Park Guell

 Day1- We arrived in Barcelona bright and early in the morning and Jordi. Our host was at the airport to pick us up. He drove us to his apartment, showed us around and went off to work. After a short nap Morris and I walked to Park Guell where we had been on the last trip but enjoyed very much just the same.  Park Guell was designed by Antonio Gaudi, about whom you will hear more later.  He is famous in these parts, but his buildings are all strange.  He hated straight lines, so everything is curvy, wavy and very unusual.  We both like his work very much. 

On our second day, Morris and I decided to visit the Sagrada Famillia, a church started by Gaudi in the late 1800’s, and left unfinished for many decades after his untimely death in 1926.  More recently work resumed, but in a more modern idiom, although still according to Gaudi’s original plans.  The structure is Gaudi’s but the decorations are 21^st century.  It is not yet finished on the outside but the inside is and is open to viewing and what a sight it is. When we were there 5 years ago and walked through the construction site inside, it seemed as if they would never finish. It is scheduled to be finished by the middle of this century. That’s right!  Another 38 odd years.  It’s hard to understand what is taking so long, and I can’t say that I know the answer, but I think that some of it has to do with the intricacies of the decorations, and the small number of artisans capable of making those decorations.   Gaudi, of course, was an absolute genius and the Sagrada Famillia is a beautiful, bright, architectural wonder- so glad we decided to revisit! Later in the day we visited the Joan Miro museum and Las Ramblas, a beautiful pedestrian street closed off to traffic.

Inside the Sagrada Famillia- not a typical cathedral!

Day 2.  We have only been in Barcelona for 2 days but it feels like we have been here for far longer. We hit the jackpot- our hosts, Jordi and Teresa- are exceptional hosts and have made our visit to Barcelona an unforgettable experience. Not only are they great tour guides but they are also gourmet cooks- such deliciously consistent food! We have had to record this otherwise there would be a confused memory of churches, galleries, restaurants and unfamiliar foods!

Here we are eating some kind of clam prepared by Jordi- delicious!

Jordi is a walking encyclopedia when it comes to the history and politics of Barcelona, Catalonia and their relationship to Spain.  It has been quite an education. Teresa and Jordi took us into the center of the city last night where we had dinner at a fabulous restaurant. We enjoyed familiar foods prepared differently and a variety of food groups never eaten before. Now we can safely say we have eaten tripe, head of sheep, salt cod- all of which are delicious- who knew! Without their introduction to these foods, we never would have known to try them. After dinner we walked around a very old and funky neighbourhood. Jordi took us to a bar- a remnant of the 50’s I think where we had cocktails and enjoyed the atmosphere.

Rooftop dining- excellent food prepared by Teresa and Jordi and more cava and wine than we're used to.

We had a good start Saturday morning. After a lovely breakfast of traditional goat’s cheese, fruit and toast, along with coffee- European style, we drove back to the center of the city where we had been the night before. We got the guided tour- a Jordi special- of the old city including the Barcelona cathedral, King’s Square, various shops popular with the residents of Barcelona and finally a beautiful market far enough from Las Ramblas to be popular with the residents but not the tourists.

(Tilt your head)-Morris and Irene standing on the top of the Barcelona Cathedral

Hmmm- which tomatoes should we buy?

These are all tomatoes- we bought several varieties- all excellent!

We had lunch at the market at a beautiful and friendly restaurant where we sat family style at long harvest tables and spoke (Jordi and Teresa) to other patrons. We managed to have yet another superb meal. Morris and I barely glanced at our menus leaving the ordering entirely up to Teresa and Jordi who had distinguished themselves so well the previous night with their choices for our dinners. Yet again we were not disappointed.

The biggest tomato weighed in at over 850g- just under 2 pounds!

After buying a few items for future consumption, Jordi drove us around Barcelona giving us the scenic tour of the old city, the harbour, beach and various interesting neighbourhoods. By mid afternoon we were exhausted and opted to return to their home for a chance to recharge before continuing with our tourism. (Being a tourist is very exhausting). Toward evening we strolled around the neighbourhood- very vibrant to say the least. We bought our wine, breads and a few other items before returning home to cook dinner where we were introduced to yet more previously unknown species of food prepared by our foodie hosts.

Another one of Gaudi's buildings- a private home a few minutes walk from Teresa and Jordi's

On Sunday morning we left town for Jordi and Teresa’s beach house south of Sitges.  We stopped in Sitges for lunch in the middle of a festival.  There was a wine pressing competition (barefoot) and a parade of people wearing large funny heads.  It was a hot day and those poor people in the masks were soaked when they took them off.  Later that day, at the beach house we went swimming in the Mediterranean- what a treat! The water was crystal clear and just the right temperature.   

Sitges- wine festival parade

Moaning and groaning quietly, on Monday morning we all got up well before the crack of dawn to go birding with a guide.  About an hour south of where we were staying.  For me it was good birding, about 70 species including flamingoes and kingfishers.  I was the only one who had done serious birding before, but Jordi is starting to get into it.

 After the birding we visited a coastal town, Tarragona, where we walked around, bought a souvenir and continued back to the apartment.  (Well actually not really a souvenir, but a piece of pottery that I think Irene would have bought even if we were in Toronto).

Teresa posing in the doorway of a remnant of a medieval building left as a permanent sculpture

Relaxing after a swim in the Mediterranean. Jordi and Teresa's apt is behind Morris' head with the yellow and red flag hanging from the balcony. Location, location, location!

Monday morning we all went down to the beach, about 50 feet from the apartment, had another swim and went back to Barcelona. We had lunch at an outdoor café away from the tourists and got a glimpse of life in Barcelona- very different from our city life. They are very family oriented and appear very friendly and welcoming.

Lunch at an outdoor cafe- more wine, more food!

You may have read about the march for Catalonian independence.  Jordi had been briefing us on why Catalonia wants independence, and of course we could not help comparing to Quebec.  However, the major difference is that Catalonia sends about 9% of it’s GDP to the rest of Spain, and appears to be continually get the shaft from Spain.  In contrast, Quebec seems to get more than its fair share of GDP, and are still not happy.  So this march organized by non-governmental group surprised the politicians by its size.  The papers said there were about 1.5 million people there (which is about 20% of the population)(and two Canadians).  Politicians who were against independence now seem to changing their tune.  The Catalans are hopeful that independence will come.   Jordi, who is a fervent Catalan and Teresa attended the march, and so did we.  The last time I was in a protest march was in University, protesting against apartheid.  Since it was a holiday- Catalonian Independence (they want independence from Spain as they are unfairly treated) they had a march. There were forests of Catalonian lags and people chanting In- Inde- Independacion (probably got the spelling wrong). Anyway, I chanted along with them and enjoyed the people watching.

Can you guess who the real Catalans are!

We had a great time in Barcelona.  The company was excellent.  The food was spectacular.  I don’t think we have ever had such a prolonged period of excellent easting, all kinds of strange foods.  Irene has already mentioned the tripe and some others, but add to that list sea snails, regular snails, various clams, langoustine, a variety of fish that we do not get or eat regularly, including fresh anchovies, sardines, whiting, barnacles, and some delicious melons. 

This is being written now from Berlin, where we arrived to day.  Our meal tonight was a great disappointment.  In comparison to what we have been eating the meal was overly salty, stodgy and not very tasty.  Well, we wanted typical German food, and that’s what we got.  Our bad!

Tomorrow my work starts, in the late afternoon, so I will be a tourist for a little while longer, but Irene will continue the tourist thing.

Morris and Irene