Friday, 3 October 2014

Today we left Addis Ababa for a place called Lalibella, a small village where there are some famous churches carved out of rock.  It is supposed to be THE place to go in Ethiopia.  

The flight was OK, except that we were at the airport at about 5.00 am.  The plane flew over the largest lake in Ethiopia, Lake Tana, and stopped at a small town called Gondor and then on to Lalibella.  Lalibella is in the mountains, so the airport is 25 bone-jarring km away form the town.  The roads leave something to be desired.  We were met and taken to our hotel, which is attractive, clean but basic.  It costs the grand sum of $20/night, breakfast included.  Take that Sheraton!  And they throw in a mouse in the room for free (not a computer mouse!)

For the ex-South Africans reading this, this next bit is for you.  I can't say how uplifted I felt to be once again in rural Africa.  It was quite emotional.  I guess there is something left over from my youth that ties me to the place.  Although Ethiopia is far from South Africa the countryside is similar to Zululand and the Natal Drakensberg, areas where I spent a fair amount of time.  But it's more than geography.  There were aloes in bloom.  Little picanins (children) were herding cattle along the side of the road.  Some seemed as young as 6 years old.  There were women carrying wood on their heads.  Dry river beds were bordered by dongas (eroded ditches).  But enough!.  Suffice to say that I was pleased to be here.

The churches were quite something.  These were large edifices carved out of solid rock.  It must have taken hundreds, if not thousands or workers (?slaves) to create these "buildings".  They are still in use as churches today.  Ethiopia has a calendar or religious ceremonies like no other.  We are currently in a period of religious ceremony, and there are pilgrims by the hundreds at these churches.  There is not a lot of space, entrances to the churches are narrow, and there are narrow steps and ditches all around.  Two lanes of people, one in each direction, are not comfortably possible.  But, there is no such thing as "after you sir".  Rather it is "coming through, like it or not!"

One of the attractions of Ethiopia was that it has a large variety of birds and it has lived up to its reputation.  Without any effort I identified 20 species today.  There are some that I have seen before, but most are new to me.  

One additional point.  the weather has been favourable.  The rainy season was supposed to have ended last week, but it has rained every night, although not in the day.  it's a good thing though, because it keeps the dust down.  

Just a word about my travelling companion.  Cliff Ottaway is a retired gastroenterologist from St Michael's Hospital.  I could not have asked for a more congenial companion.  I hope he sees me that same way.  We are having fun together.  

Till next time

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